From the northern end of Palm Beach the Smugglers track climbs steeply, or the service trail winds up more gently, to the 1881 sandstone lighthouse on the headland. From the top the ocean lies on one side and Pittwater on the other, with whales passing in the cooler months.

Good to know: allow an hour return, the rocks at the top are exposed to the wind, and the lighthouse opens for tours on Sundays.