The morning started at Gordons Bay, with a short walk down to the boat ramp. People were out and about for their morning walks and debriefs, ready to take the plunge, walking, running and smiling, taking in nature's gifts. The ocean was swirling, noisy miners were hopping from tree to tree, and the blues of the swell churning over the rocks were spectacular. Lorikeets and superb fairy wrens were enjoying the still morning breeze. This is one of the few spots in the eastern suburbs where a boat can be launched straight into the ocean, and the little fishing club on the sand has been here in some form since the early 1900s. Under the water there is a nature trail, a chain running between drums on the seabed that divers and snorkellers follow past the kelp, the blue gropers and the red morwong. Locals still call the bay Thommo's, after a Randwick mayor who bought the land in 1859 and named the bay after himself.

Giles Baths was a new one for me, tucked away at the north end of Coogee. The swell was crashing over the boulders, still providing enough shelter for a couple of happy bathers, diving in and being gently moved around in the currents. I cannot wait to go back to this one for a dip. You walk through the archway and down the stairs, and it opens up to the baths. On this day it was like a spa bath, filling with white water from the swell, bubbling. It sounded just like opening a bottle of sparkling water, and a fine ocean spray rested gently on your cheeks. Standing on the rocky platform, you felt immersed in the very essence of the ocean. Divine.

A swimmer diving into Giles Baths rock pool, Coogee
A dive into Giles Baths, Coogee. Photo: Oliver Strewe.

That archway, with BATHS carved into the sandstone, is all that is left of a building with quite a story. This rock pool was leased to the council in 1902, and in 1924 Oscar Giles won the lease and ran it as Giles Hot Sea Baths, with hot sea water, sweat boxes and a gym where jockeys and boxers came to sweat off weight. His family ran it for more than fifty years, and it became the Giles Leisure Centre. When the building came down in 2000, the council kept the archway, and the rock pool was given back to everyone.

Lurline Bay was next, the quiet bay between Coogee and Maroubra, and the waves were crashing against the sandstone with real force. A beautiful walk along the cliff top, with pied currawongs gliding in between the trees and the sweet smell of jasmine in the air. Forty odd years ago this cliff top was a spot where old cars were dumped, and a local asked the council for a safety fence. Today it is a reserve with a path, and just around the corner is Mahon Pool, where anemones, crabs and the odd octopus share the water with the morning swimmers.

Waves on the sandstone at Lurline Bay, Sydney
Lurline Bay, between Coogee and Maroubra. Photo: Oliver Strewe.

Then around to Cape Banks, a beautiful headland walk in Kamay Botany Bay National Park, starting from the Westpac Life Saver Rescue Helicopter base and walking the headlands. Superb fairy wrens were dancing through the coastal scrub, magpies were out enjoying the morning, and golfers were enjoying the great weather on a spectacular course. That course is the New South Wales Golf Club, laid out in 1926 by Alister MacKenzie, the man who later designed Augusta National, and it sits right out on the headland among the heath. The landscape and the changing weather were breathtaking, with a soft breeze moving across your body, and you can watch the cargo ships move out of the bay to sea on their next adventures. A small footbridge takes you out onto the cape itself, and under the bridge you can watch the tide go in and out, making small cascading waterfalls over the rock. The rusting stern of the Minmi, a collier that struck the cape in 1937, still sits on the rock platform here.

The sea at Cape Banks, Kamay Botany Bay National Park
The sea at Cape Banks. Photo: Oliver Strewe.
The tide cutting through the rock at Cape Banks
Cape Banks, where the tide cuts through the rock. Photo: Oliver Strewe.
Nicole McMahon sitting on the rock edge at Cape Banks
Sitting on the edge at Cape Banks. Photo: Oliver Strewe.

Next was Congwong Beach, a stunning little pocket at La Perouse, inside the national park, with Bare Island and its 1885 fort across the water. This is Guriwal, a place the Aboriginal people of La Perouse have never left, and the Gamay Rangers now help care for the park. Little Congwong sits beside it, a short walk across the rocks, and on a calm ocean day it is a short swim. Parking is limited to get to this one, or you can walk the track down from the Loop. A five minute stepped path brings you to the sand, with no facilities at all, which is the whole point.

Congwong Beach, La Perouse, in Kamay Botany Bay National Park
Congwong Beach, La Perouse. Photo: Oliver Strewe.

Last stop was Yarra Bay, with a short stroll past the Chinese market gardens on the way. These gardens have been worked since the early 1900s, their creeks run down to the bay, and they are heritage listed as one of only a handful of market gardens left in Sydney. Then straight down to the water's edge. The day was beautiful, scattered clouds, and the water was crisp as I slowly entered and gave in to the beauty, floating around in the soft currents. Up on the lawn is the Yarra Bay Sailing Club, formed in 1928, with a clubhouse the members built themselves. What a spot for a meal, overlooking the bay where dolphins, and whales in season, come to dance. A sense of time to relax, a holiday spot perhaps for our marine life too.

Waves and a paddleboarder at Yarra Bay, La Perouse
Yarra Bay, La Perouse. Photo: Nicole McMahon.
The calm inner shore of Yarra Bay, La Perouse
The calm inner shore of Yarra Bay. Photo: Nicole McMahon.

Another wonderful adventure, showcasing the beauty of the Australian coastline. Which one is now on your places to explore list?

Connection in nature, and adventures to remember.

Good to know

Gordons Bay: a steep walk down from Victory Street or along the coast walk from Clovelly, a boat ramp, no sand to speak of at high tide, and the underwater nature trail for snorkellers on a calm day.

Giles Baths: through the archway at the north end of Coogee Beach and down the stairs. A natural rock pool, so check the swell before you get in.

Lurline Bay: cliff top walking between Coogee and Maroubra, with Mahon Pool just to the south for a swim.

Cape Banks: the Cape Banks walking track is about seven kilometres return from the La Perouse end, about three hours, past the Henry Head battery, Cruwee Cove and the golf course, with whales passing in winter. Park at the helicopter base end for the short version.

Congwong Beach: a five minute stepped path from Cann Park at La Perouse, calm water, no facilities. Little Congwong is a short walk left across the rocks.

Yarra Bay: calm bay swimming, the Chinese market gardens on Bunnerong Road, and the Yarra Bay Sailing Club bistro open to visitors (check their hours before you go).

An Earth to Sea News original. Photographs: Oliver Strewe, gifted to Earth to Sea News, and Nicole McMahon (Yarra Bay).